Tuesday 12 May 2009



I just think this a beautiful simple image of two men in their dug out canoe. The one standing is using a tree branch as his pole and they will stay until they have caught enough fish for their dinner.

Sometimes I wonder who needs progress?



This wooden boat is at the posh end of the boat scale in Rwanda. It is made of pieces of wood tightly fastened together and sealed. These guys were rowing against a fast flowing current upstream, but they still managed to ask us for "amafaranga" ie money. The best one I have heard is someone who swam up to Hayley while she was swimming in the lake and asked her for some money!

Many of the ordinary fishing boats that you see are simply a large tree trunk which has been hollowed out and they are really unstable. That is the Congo on the bank at the other side!



This is me at Chyangugu - the land atthe other side of the lake that you can see in the distance is the Congo. This is the southernmost town in Rwanda where there is a border crossing into Congo. We went right up to the border which is a narrow one way bridge, with a small customs post and an armed guard. It was all quite casual really, but obviously wealthy across the other side in Bakuva. We didn't bother going across but sat and had a beer by the narrow fast flowing river, knowing that the bank at the other side was in a different country which was quite weird!

There was a large earthquake here only about a year ago and there is still a lot of methane in the lake. There were many fishermen out in their dug out canoes while we were there though, hauling the tiny fish that they make into simbasa, which is like dried whitebait.

Talking of earthquakes I have actually experienced three while I have been here,. There was a small one last night which I could actually feel moving along in a line under the ground. A month or so ago there was one at 7 am. The floor was moving one way backwards and forwards for a long time and the walls seemed to be going in the opposite direction. The first one was in Butare when I was in the motel and I was a bit too asleep to notice. I thought it was just a big fat bloke turning over in bed in the room next door!!!!

Monday 11 May 2009



This is passion fruit growing in our garden. There are dozens of fruits on the plant along the fence. Its not ripe yet but I hope I can pick one before I come home. We also have bananas trees. These two fruits plus pineapple are our three choices of pudding, although oranges seem to be in season too at the moment.

To us it may seem that there are no growing seasons as each day we usually have some sunshine and some rain, which combined with fertile soils makes this country a perfect place to grow things. Everywhere you look, no matter how small the plot, Rwandans will have planted something, and they will know the best time to plant them and things do grow very quickly. A field will be planted with some small bean plants and in a couple of weeks they are two metres tall. And no matter where you are, out of the major town centres, there will be someone nearby labouring in the fields, usually with only a simple hoe which is used in a smiliar way to a pick. I can never work out how they seem to know whose plot of land is whose, but they do. Any excess is then taken to market to be sold.


It has to be done! It is the only way we can get to some schools and it can be as much as an hour up the dirt road clinging on for dear life. I could now enter for the pillion passenger motor bike scrambling championship especially after the rain when the roads are no more than muddy puddles held together by a few small solid patches. Basically you just have to pretend that you are a sack of potatoes and hope that he wants chips for dinner. The only trouble is that potatoes don't hurt when they fall off. These guys know what they are doing though and can get up inch wide gaps between the puddles and the potholes and I just presume they do not fall off any more than I do. It always seems easier after a couple of Mutzigs but this was at 12 noon so a bit early for that!

Everywhere you walk you get a crowd - its a bit like being the Pied Piper, or at least I get an idea how the queen must feel now, because everyone stares at you and waves like you are royalty. We had just gone for a long walk around the other side of the valley one day and this was one of the first crowds we picked up so they got their photo taken. They had not started to ask us for "amafaranga" ie money at this stage, because they were not used to seeing musungus in their area. But they probably did. It seems to be becoming the greeting when they see us to ask for money without even bothering to say hello sometimes. You can understand it if you think about it. But it is hard to be constantly bombarded with it.